I was predisposed to thinking that the owners or managers of Zoria were innovative and creative long before I ate at the restaurant.  It was the marquee sign: a few years ago, every so often (monthly as I recall) Zoria’s marquee spelled out a few more teasing lines in an ongoing fantasy story featuring a princess by the name of Zoria. Although the restaurant has a prime location on the northeast corner of Main Street and Links Avenue, I could not maintain continuity with the story and yet, I was intrigued.  Were they making the story up or were they outlining a story already written?   Eventually it ended.  Regardless, Zoria had succeeded in attracting potential patrons with a story as fleeting and seductive as a fantasy princess. Zoria’s seduction, as I learned, did not end there.

Zoria is immaculately decorated in muted sophistication with attention paid to clean lines and open spaces that take advantage of the restaurant’s high ceiling and impressive streetside floor-to-ceiling windows. With its sunken dining rooms and pockets of appropriately placed tables, the open layout creates an intimate dining experience that never feels crowded.  The full-service bar area does fill up quickly though.  Zoria also offers covered outdoor dining, which became for my partner and me one of our favorite spots to enjoy a bottle of wine during a rainstorm.  Zoria’s wine list is varied and extensive.  Zoria’s waitstaff are more than polite and well-trained: they are devoted, which means after several visits they (whether waiting on you or not) will acknowledge their recognition of you with a smile and a greeting.

Zoria’s food is thoughtfully prepared with a focus not only on flavor but on texture and presentation as well. The pepper crusted antelope resting in a delicate jus is delectible by itself, but Zoria serves the antelope with a modest cake of layered potatoes au gratin topped with a decadently rich slice foie gras and half-pear.  Notwithstanding the inescapably pedestrian mix of potatoes and cheese of the au gratin, the flavor of the antelope, foie gras, pear and jus make each bite at once exquisite and exotic.  The plaintain crusted red snapper is also nicely seasoned and complemented by the mango chutney and habanero mashed potatoes, making every bite delightful.

The flavorful filet mignon is a respectable cut of meat and Zoria has never undercooked or overcooked my medium rare.  The menu has undergone some changes but I recall either string beans or asparagus decorating the filet.  Never a disappointment.  Similarly, the execellence of the  braised lamb shank eclipses any memory of the side, but oh!  the lamb shank!  Fork tender, it melts in your mouth.

Although we have eaten dessert at Zoria on several occasions, I am not sure what they currently offering.  I can confidently assure you that Zoria’s dessert offerings are worthy of Zoria’s tasty main dishes.

In sum, Zoria’s food, like its decor, is nonchalatantly elegant.  Tasty food combinations served in a white-linen table-cloth ambience with a casual atmosphere where the server, host, or owner are never more than a wave away.  Because Zoria is neither a chain, nor even one of several incarnations or locations, one gets the impression that the owners are mindful of Zoria’s uniqueness and lovingly dote on each detail, aiming to offer their patrons the culmination of their experience with innovation and creativity.  And they succeed. Do yourself a favor and enjoy a dining experience at Zoria.  Zoria’s website: www.zoria.net

Tags: Restaurant, Restaurant Reviews

Written By: BJ
Thursday, September 4th, 2008